Sunday, December 21, 2025

Viveca Sten in Jämtland

 



This is the Viveca Sten novel from 2021 titled Dalskuggan in Swedish and published in English translation as Hidden in Shadows. As you can see I read it in the French translation by Amanda Postel and Anna Postel, Les Ombres de la Vallée. It's Verborgen in de Schaduw in Dutch, Tief im Schatten in German, Skyggedalen in Norwegian and Danish, Laakson Varjo in Finnish, Ascunsă în umbră in Romanian, Daladrungi in Icelandic,  . . .

The titles hint at the "valley of the shadow of death" in Psalm 23 (which is mentioned in the novel, Ch 52a). But this time the Lord doesn't defend against evil, seemingly. 

I'll admit I picked it up at the French service station because of the Jämtland setting; I might not have spent my money on one of Viveca Sten's earlier Sandhamn Murders, which are set in the Stockholm archipelago, but I was intrigued by the thought of readers all across Europe reading about Jämtland. In this case "Jämtland" mainly means the area around Åre that tourists flock to every winter. The novel's locations are strung along the central stretch of the E14 (the E75 of my youth), and its abiding image is of the exhausted investigators driving back and forth along this wintry highway, reactively swayed by priorities and struggling to reflect. 


E14, east to west.

(The novel moves forwards and backwards from the initial discovery of the corpse of Johan Andersson. I've done my best not to give away crucial developments, so some of these notes are a bit mystical.)

Sundsvall. The eastern terminus of the E14, a long way east of the other locations. This is where, ten years ago, Daniel's mother was killed by a hit-and-run driver.

Östersund. Largest town in the county of Jämtland, police HQ. Johan's parents live here. Marion picks up her brother Florian from Östersund airport. The helicopter goes to Östersund hospital.

Mattmar. Carina Grankvist (forensics) lives here.

Järpen. Rebecka went to college here. Ida's mother Elisabeth lives in a flat here. The witness Elin works here. Raffe lives at Kall, a few kms north of Järpen; also at Kall, the isolated cabin lent to Johan by a friend. 

Åre. Site of the police station where the team gather at the start and end of each day, with video link to Östersund.  Daniel and Ida live here, they first met at the nightclub Bygget, the same place Anton meets Carl. Anton was born and raised in Åre (or Duved?). Åre has become a tourist sprawl. Hanna lives in her sister Lydia's fancy chalet at Sadeln (new development to the E of Åre). Richard takes the children swimming at the Copperhill Hotel, also in this bit of Åre. On his last afternoon Johan was working at Sadeln with a lunch-break at Björnänge. Linus' wife Sandra works at a beauty salon in the central square of Åre. Near here, Hanna and Daniel eat pizza at the brasserie Werséns. Ida meets her friend Tove at a grill in Åre. Hanna and Daniel are tempted by a maxiburger at Brokens but instead grab a hot-dog at the service station near chair-lift VM6. Hanna drinks alone at the Veranda. Edsåsdalen, where Daniel and Ida planned an excursion, is south of Åre. 

Duved. Johan was born and raised here, went to school here with Linus and Carl. He met up with Carl at the restaurant Pigo on his last night. Carl lives here. Anton lives here. Linus and Sandra live in the countryside a few kms from Duved. Ole's father is in an old people's home in Duved. The van smash takes place near Duved.

Staa. Home of Johan and Marion. They live N of the E14. Staa also has a waste disposal site on the S side. On his last night Johan's van was seen parked south of there ("Klubbvägen", but the street-names in the novel are fictional).

Gevsjön. Johan's van is found here, on a minor road.

Tångböle. Johan's corpse is found near here.

Ånn. Where Rebecka works at the (fictional) kindergarten. 

Enafors. Ole and Rebecka live here, in the house that belonged to Ole's parents. Johan planned to pick up Rebecka at the car-park in Björkvägen (fictional street-name). Jan-Peter Jonsäter, the pastor of the Light of Life religious group (sect? free church?), lives at Handöl, a few kms SE of Enafors. The church and meeting-house are at Snasadalen (a fictional location named after the real mountain Snasahögarna, five minutes drive from Handöl).

Storvallen. Rebecka's parents live here. 

Storlien. The frontier with Norway. The helicopter lands here.

Meråker (Norway). The empty house that Ole inherited from his grandfather is near here, NE of the E14.

Trondheim (Norway). The western terminus of the E14, a long way west of the other locations. Johan and Marion visited friends here a year ago. The Light of Life has a presence here, and Ole has family here.

Other places

Strömsund (50km NE of Östersund). Home of Johan's brother Pär.

Umeå. Ole studied here. Johan's autopsy is here. Daniel's estranged father lives here with his second family.

Gävle. Carl went to university here.

Nerja (Spain). Hanna's mother lives here.

*

Hidden in Shadows is quite a generic scandi noir, but that doesn't mean there's nothing to say about it. Apart from driving along the E14, it's about violence and relationships and society. Crime in a professional sense turns out to be virtually absent. Life in mainstream society isn't necessarily easy, but the novel's values appear reassuringly mainstream; work, leisure and consumption are positive things. Public services are reassuringly present when you need them. On the other hand, non-mainstream activity (e.g. the Light of Life) is intrinsically suspicious; bad things happen in the shadows. It's what you'd expect in the definitive mass-market book genre.

But in scandi noir there's often a discussion going on in the background, and the picture by the end is more nuanced. Violence in relationships takes many forms, not just physical, and it isn't only horrible people who turn violent.  The novel observes the violence of mainstream society too. I don't recall another police procedural so aware of how police investigations wreak their own kinds of violence. Outcomes are hard to control. Modern society is complicated; like love, like life. . .


*

Vocab for reading scandi thrillers in French:

Recroqueville: curls up.

Pathologique: high-risk. "Sa grossesse est pathologique"; her pregnancy is high-risk. 

Déchetterie: waste disposal site.

Étayer: confirm, support, prop up (a theory).

Bouleau: birch.

Soucis de canalisations: plumbing problems.

Lance: another word for "says". 

Bredouille: stammers.

Lâche-t-elle: she blurts out.

Aller fureter: go poking around (on Facebook).

Sa mâchoire sur le point de se déboiter: her jaw on the point of being dislocated.

La ferme! rugit-il: Shut up! he shouts.





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Sunday, September 28, 2025

Learning Swedish with Elin Olofsson

 

Gånglåt, med hjortronsylt (cloudberry jam).


I've just finished reading Gånglåt (2016), a novel by the Jämtland author Elin Olofsson.

A "gånglåt" is a walking tune suitable for brisk country walks, such as the melody of "Vi går över daggstänkta berg, fallera!" The normal context is folk tunes, relevant to the novel's rural setting in Jämtland and to the musical career of Sonia, one of the lead characters. It also suggests the happy uncomplicated communing of people who are in harmony with each other... something that Gånglåt very devastatingly fails to portray. 

Here's some language notes, basically addressed to myself and of interest only to other people who are learning Swedish (and are probably getting a bit beyond Duolingo).

I found it a perfect novel for that purpose: contemporary, realistic, unsentimental, concise with its details and poetry, exact in its rendering of ordinary speech. The rural setting also worked for me, though other learners might want something more urban.

SAOB, constantly referenced here, means Svenska Akademiens Ordbok, the Swedish equivalent of the Oxford English Dictionary but freely available online (though I hardly dare to mention this for fear of jinxing it). The definitions are massively detailed and not easy reading,  but pasting bits into Google Translate is usually enough to get the gist.


Kattan

Men i mig bor en farlig katta
med mjuka tassen slår hon mus 
hon åmar sig långt bort i natta 
stryker trolöst varje hus
  (p. 5)
But in me lives a dangerous she-cat
With soft paws she kills the mouse
She stalks far away at night
Faithlessly swishes through every house

The chapter epigraph hints at Sonia's unsettled and jarring behaviour when she revisits the family homestead. 

"Kattan" was Sonia's first hit record, back in 1979. "Katta" is a variant of "katt"; it just means a cat, or sometimes a female cat specifically; hence it's been used as a gendered insult directed at a woman. 

"Stryker" carries the general sense of lightly smoothing or sliding over a surface, for example ironing.  It can also have a connotation of swindling, like a cat who visits many houses for food. 


Omission of "it" (det)

Vi sparar väl åt henne så att det finns när hon kommer... (p. 9)

We'll save it for her so it's there when she comes...

Note also the present tense "sparar" (where English uses the future tense)  and the frequent use in speech of words like "väl" and "ju" and "minsann" which are pretty impossible to translate directly into English. They act like intensifiers that also propose a tone, inviting the listener's collusion in e.g. confidence or resignation or doubt. 

E.g. the doctor allowing Sonia one glass of wine: "Det ska ju bara vara bra för hjärtat" (p. 117) --  "It's good for the heart, supposedly". Or Nancybeth arriving with a suitcase: "För ni tar väl emot mig?" (p. 143) -- "Because you'll take me in, right?"

Omission of has/had (har/hade)

Går ju att värma på om hon inte stannat längs vägen och ätit. (p. 9)

It can be heated up if she hasn't stopped along the way and eaten.

It's usual to miss out the first part of compound verbs in subordinate clauses. Despite the omission the meaning is evident because in Swedish the supine form (stannat, ätit) is only ever used in compound verbs. 

Big and little sister / hålla

"Storsyrran," viskade Sonia medan hon höll om henne. (p. 10)

"Big sister," Sonia whispered as she held her.

"Storsyrran" and "lillsyrran" are intimate forms of "storasyster" and "lillasyster". Compare Sture's "dotra" (my daughter, p. 118).

"Hålla om" is to hold someone in the sense of hugging them. "Hålla i" is to hold someone in the sense of e.g. holding on to someone's hand to stop them slipping down a slope. "Regnet håller i sig" means the rain is holding on (persisting), not holding off! "Hålla på" is to support e.g. a football team; "hålla ordning på" is to keep [sth./sne.] in check; "hålla på här hemma", stay (continue) here at home; "hålla på med hennes bok", to carry on with (continue working on) her book. 

The harp

"Så du spelar? Harpa, alltså? Eller är det efter patiensen?"

"So you play? The harp, I suppose? Or is it from the patience game?"

When Jenny hears that Sonia's companion is nicknamed Harpan, which means "the harp", her natural first assumption is that he's a musician like Sonia. But "harpan" is also the Swedish name of a popular patience game, the one that Microsoft simply calls Solitaire. 

Out in the kitchen

"I'm going to get the roast," Gun-Britt said and disappeared.

Sture collected up the starter plates, put them on the tray and followed her out to the kitchen.

"Yes, I thought he'd be younger," Gun-Britt repeated. "And he was married too, he had a gold ring on his finger."

"Better not interfere. It's probably just someone she knows," said Sture.

"But I'd hoped that she... And she was so anxious about could he rent and was there a slot and it had to be Bergsstugan because it's the nicest."

"She just wanted to help, she knows we need paying guests," said Sture, scooping boiled potatoes into a large porcelain bowl.

"No, not that one. You can't wash it in the machine. The gilt comes off," said Gun-Britt and took the bowl from him.

She put it down on the kitchen side and took another from out the cupboards.

One by one she transferred the potatoes into it with a ladle.

"I thought she seemed so down last winter, but she's been happier on the phone this spring, so I thought she might have met someone."

Sture didn't answer, he carefully rinsed the porcelain bowl under the tap without using any washing-up liquid, then wiped it with a kitchen towel and put it back where he'd taken it.

"Don't get involved," he said. "You know how she gets mad when you do, she thinks you're sticking your oar in."

"I simply care about my daughter, how she's feeling and how she's getting on," replied Gun-Britt, and then they went out to the dining-room again, Sture with the potatoes and the plate for peelings, she with the roast and the carving-knife and the gravy in a jug.

She had to go back and get the salad before they could start on the main course.

*

"Jag går och hämtar steken", sa Gun-Britt och försvann.

Sture samlade ihop förrättstallrikarna, lade dem på brickan och gick efter henne, ut till köket.

"Ja, jag trodde han skulle vara yngre", sa Gun-Britt igen. "Och han var ju gift också, hade guldring på fingret."

"Lägg dig inte i det där. Det är väl bara någon hon känner", sa Sture. 

"Men jag hade hoppats att hon. . . Och hon var så angelägen om att han skulle få hyra, att det fanns plats. Och just Bergsstugan skulle det vara. För att den är finast."

"Hon ville väl bara hjälpa till, hon vet att Vi behöver hyresgäster", sa Sture och öste upp kokt potatis i en stor porslinsskål.

"Inte den där. Den går inte att diska I maskin. Förgyllningen släpper", sa Gun-Britt och tog ifrån honom skålen.

Hon satte ner den på köksbänken och tog fram en annan ur skåpen.

En efter en puttade hon över potatiserna i den med en slev.

"Hon lät ju så nere i vintras tyckte jag, men hon har ju låtit gladare på telefon nu i vår så jag tänkte att hon kanske träffat någon."

Sture svarade inte, han sköljde försiktigt porslinsskålen under kraken utan att ta något diskmedel och sedan torkade han ur den med en kökshandduk och ställde tillbaka den där han tagit den.

"Ligg inte på henne om det", sa han. "Du vet att hon blir sur om du gör det. Att hon tycker att du lägger dig i."

"Jag bryr om min dotter bara, hur hon mår och hur hon har det", svarade Gun-Britt, och så gick de ut i salen igen, Sture med potatisen och skalfatet, hon med steken och kniven och brunsåsen i en snipa. 

Salladen fick hon gå tillbaka och hämta innan de kunde börja med varmrätten. 

(From Ch 2, pp. 50-51.)

Stek: a roast in this case, though "steka" is also "to fry". Gun-Britt's dinner began with some rather unusual blinis, but the main course is nothing fancy: roast beef, boiled potatoes, gravy with a bit of cream in it (though not much), and salad. 

Skulle: three appearances in this extract, neatly showing its three main uses; "was going to", "would" and "should".

Guldring på fingret: literally "gold ring on the finger", where English uses a tautological possessive adjective ("his finger"). Compare "sonen" on p. 63 ("the son", where we'd say "his son").

Lägga sig i : to interfere with, get involved in. What you should never do when it comes to their daughter, according to Sture (see also p. 153). He's habitually a smoother-over. Underneath he's probably thinking just the same as his fiery wife, but he tries to stop her thinking or acting. Gun-Britt has a semi-functioning marriage (more than Sonia will ever have), and Sture seems a lovely guy, but Sture diplomatically sleeps through everything, she's on her own.

Snipa: any sort of pouring jug: a gravy-boat in this case, but the word's also used for a cream-jug. Related to "snip", a spout.


Snickarglädje 

utan att det skar sig mot snickarglädjen (p. 52)

Snickarglädje (lit. carpenter's joy) is the fancy carved tracery with lots of piercings on the verandas and gables of wooden houses. It arrived in Sweden from Germany in the 19th century (a fashion that originated in Swiss chalets).

https://www.byggahus.se/bygga/snickargladje-da-nu

NB "Snickare" is a general word for woodworker, covering all kinds of furniture as well as house timbers, whereas "carpenter" in English tends to imply house-carpentry, i.e. in contrast to cabinetry or turnery which have become niche crafts now that everyday furniture is mass-produced.  

Snickarglädje 

[Image source: https://www.gaveldekor.se/product/gavelornament-012-snickargladje-till-tak-taknock .]


On fastenings

Blixtlåset bak i ryggen hittade han men inte hyskan som satt längst upp. När hon skulle hjälpa honom fastnade en slinga av hennes hår i den och luggade henne i nacken. (p. 62)

He located the zip behind her back but not the fastener higher up. When she tried to help him a strand of her hair got caught in it and pulled back her neck.

Of course Per wants to undress her, he's that type of guy, but the new dress that Jenny already regrets buying is causing problems.

Strictly, a hake is a hook and a hyska is an eye or eyelet. A dressmaker would buy a pack of "Hakar och hyskor", meaning hooks and eyes. One of each constitutes a fastener, a häkta, so you might also see them sold as "häktor".

" Luggade" literally means tangled. 

"Nacken" is the back of the neck, as opposed to "halsen" (the throat). The latter word is also what you'd use for "neck" in general, e.g. "Giraffen har en lång hals".

Since we're on the subject, "Hon knäppte upp knappen i byxorna" (p.127) means "She undid the button on her trousers" -- not "she did up the button", which would be "knäppte ihop knappen..." But watch out, because "Som tur var hade hon knäppt skjortan ända upp" (p. 131) means "Luckily she'd buttoned her shirt all the way up", just as in English. 

The reverse sense of "upp" (from an English perspective) occurs elsewhere too. When Nancybeth gives the impression that she had "tänkt packa upp utomhus" (p.143), it means she looked like she was going to unpack outside, not pack up.

As we'll see when Jenny gets out the camera, knäppa is also to click or snap (take a picture).


Afterwards

När allt rasat ut, det man burit och längtat och trampat sönder, då skulle döden vara så här, utan villa.

When everything had raged itself to a standstill, everything you carried and yearned for and trampled on, then death would be like this, without will. 

Another whole lot of missing auxiliary "had"s!

"Rasa" is a tricky word meaning violent and noisy bursting out, used for instance about a building collapsing, violent applause, the raging of a storm; also when plants fling ripe seeds. It has sometimes been just a slangy intensifier: "Det är en rasande tur att du leva min vän" (Evert Taube)... Roaring good luck, so to speak. "Rasa ut" implies something raging itself to a standstill e.g. a fury, a storm blowing itself out. 

"Trampa" on its own just means "tread". "Trampa sönder" means "trample", literally "tread to bits".


Night cleaning

Hon sprejade handfatet, kranen och spegeln med en tjockt lager städsprej och hoppades att hon inte skulle bli sjuk själv, för det hade hon inte tid med. Fast hon blev aldrig sjuk, tänkte hon medan hon började gnugga kranen och handfatet med en disksvamp.

Aldrig sjuk och aldrig upplöst längre, som Nancybeth nyss. När sprejen runnit av spegeln såg hon sig själv. Som berget. Grå, grå, grå. Aldrig nygråten numera.

She sprayed the washbasin, tap and mirror with a thick layer of bathroom cleaner and hoped she wasn't going to get sick herself, she had no time for that. Though she never did get sick, she thought as she began wiping round the tap and basin with a sponge.

No, she was never sick any more, never in bits the way Nancybeth was just now. When the spray ran down off the mirror she saw herself. Like the mountain. Grey, grey, grey. Never wet with fresh tears, not any more.

This is Gun-Britt cleaning up the vomit and diarrhoea after getting Nancybeth back to bed.

Disksvamp: a sponge for household cleaning, normally a sponge-scourer these days. The marine animals that we call sponges are called "svampdjur" in Swedish, which itself derives from "svamp" (mushroom, fungus) + "djur" (animal). So "disksvamp" in this sense combines "diska" (cleaning) with "svamp" (a sponge). [But confusingly "disksvamp" also means discomycetes fungi such as Scarlet Elf Cup; in this case a combination of "disk" (a disc shape) with "svamp" (a fungus)!]

Upplöst: literally dissolved, disintegrated; emotionally in bits. 

Nygråten: literally newly wept, i.e. when you've just been crying. You won't find this in SAOB, but it's common, e.g. describing people (usually proud mums and dads) with tears in their eyes on Instagram.


"Bortaflin" and "hemmagrin"

Bortaflin och hemmagrin hette det ju, men när de hyrde av henne eller kom till hennes gård var det som om hon tvingades ha bortaflinet på sig hemma också. Det tärde. (p. 99)

The "away grin" and the "home groan" as they say, but when people took her cabins or came up to the farm it was like she had to wear the "away grin" even in her own home. It was wearing thin.

So Gun-Britt's rhyming tag is about the bright  smile you put on when in public, masking the real feelings that you only give way to in the privacy of your own home. 

The only other place I could find this rhyming pair of expressions was in a post by Elin Olofsson herself, but I did come across another saying: "Efter flin kommer grin" (After grinning comes tears).

Both the words are nouns that are less common than their equivalent verbs (flinagrina).

Flin means "grin", with the same potentially disapproving implications as in English, e.g. a stupid or silly grin (as in Gun-Britt's saying), or the kind of jeering grin that so infuriates serious-minded adults (as in the other saying). 

Grin means the distortion of the face when crying (SAOB grin 3). This is the predominant meaning in the north of Sweden (compare p. 152, "Sture började grina" -- began to cry), but in the south of Sweden it usually means just a grin (SAOB grin 4, an import from Danish as some think). Both senses are ultimately connected with the idea of showing your teeth. The southern sense would of course ruin the point of these sayings, which perhaps explains why they're not very common. 

Here's a link to that blog post by Elin Olofsson (in Swedish). It reflects on this passage in Gånglåt and on the business of attracting tourism into the depopulated areas of Jämtland. 

https://elinolofssondotcom.wordpress.com/2016/03/05/men-aldrig-vackra-vykort/


Jämtska or slang or what?

Hon hörde musiken i huvudet. Hörde piano, hörde gitarr, hörde de klanger hon hört från början när hon skrev låten. (p. 99)

She heard the music in her head. Heard the piano, heard the guitar, heard the sounds she'd heard when she first wrote the song.

Midsummer evening. Sonia is singing unaccompanied; she hasn't played guitar for years. 

It's obvious what the sentence means, but I don't understand the construction. Does "hörde de klanger" mean "heard them sound (as she had heard them...)" or "heard the sounds (that she had heard...)"? Either way it doesn't seem to be standard Swedish. 


On dishes

... när hon gick runt bordet och samlade ihop disken. (p. 99)

... as she went round the table gathering up the dishes.

Three words to choose between. A dish as in an item of fancy food that you serve up is "en maträtt". A dish as in a utensil is probably "en skål" (a bowl) or "ett fat" (a saucer, also barrel or basin) : e.g. Put it in a dish and cover it, "Lägg det i en skål och täck över". Dishes as in dirty dishes, washing-up, is "disken" or "diskarna" (SAOB disk II.1.b); the former is in definite singular form but with plural meaning, I think. More common than the noun is the verb derived from it: diska, to wash up.


To excess

"Midsommar. Det är nu det vänder", sa hon.

Hon ville att han skulle säga det han alltid sa, det hon hört till leda, att sommaren var lång, att det var mycket kvar än, det som han brukade säga när vedboden var tom eller fönstren behövde kittas om, "sommaren är lång, Gun-Britt, det hinns med sedan", men han sa ingenting. (pp. 103-104)

"Midsummer. Now is when it turns," she said.

She wanted him to say what he always said, what she had heard till she was sick of it, that summer was long, that there was still plenty more time, the things he usually said when the woodshed was empty or the windows needed caulking, "Summer is long, Gun-Britt, there's time for that later," but he said nothing. 

"Till leda" is an informal expression meaning something repeated to the point of excess. In English we'd use expressions like "you've been told it a thousand times", "fed to the back teeth", "until I'm blue in the face" or "I've had it up to here with..." to express the same idea. 

But now after the disastrous midsummer gathering a weakened Gun-Britt longs to hear Sture's timeworn reassurance, even if she'd only find fault with it. 


One

Stigen han funnit gick snett över ena hörnet av en åker ... (p. 105).

The route he'd found cut across one corner of a field... 

"Ena hörnet" looks weird; I never saw this on Duolingo! It literally means "the one corner"; ena is the definitive form of en or ett

Snett means "diagonally" (or the obsolescent English word "athwart").

"Han funnit" is a concealed subordinate clause (that he had found), so "hade" is omitted.

Enastående (or enstående) means "extraordinary". 

En can also be used as an impersonal pronoun, instead of man. Here Sonia uses both.

Alla namn tvingar en tillbaka, tänkte Sonia. De sliter och drar i en tills man finner det någon drömde om, tänkte ut och planerade för. (p. 111)

Every name forces you back, Sonia thought. They tear and pull at you until you find what someone dreamed of, thought out and planned for.

She knows her name (originally "Sonja") means "wisdom" (Slavic variant of Sophia) but doubts if her parents chose it for that reason. Gun-Britt means "battle-bright", if it comes to that.

Standing upright

När han fått åt sig lite mer luft reste Harpan på ryggen igen. (p. 106)

When he had taken in a bit more air Harpan straightened up again.

This is "resa" not in the sense of journeying but of setting something upright (SAOB resa v2), e.g the common expression "resa på sig", to get up (stand up from a sitting position). "Resa på ryggen" literally means to straighten up the back. (Harpan after running has bent forward panting with his hands on his knees.) 


Vein-painting and gourd-painting

". . . Och ibland hittade han gamla möbler på stan som han tog hem, till och med en gammal ådermålad kista norrifrån med bröllopsdatum som han sa vi kunde låtsas var vårt." (p. 113)

". . . And sometimes he found old furniture in town that he brought home, even an old vein-painted chest from up north with a wedding date that he said we could pretend was ours."


Åder is a vein (blood-vessel, same figurative uses as in English). "Ådermålad" refers to Ådring or ådringsmålning (see Wikipedia), the technique of staining and patterning the surface of cheap wood such as pine to make it look a bit like mahogany or walnut. It's comparable to marble-effect and in English is called faux wood grain. It was very popular in Sweden at the beginning of the 20th century, then crashed out of fashion; I remember it on old furniture in our Jämtland summer cottage. 


Commode with ådringsmålning 

[Image source: https://auctionet.com/sv/4586547-komod-adringsmalad-1800-tal .]


... där en av amerikanerna dessutom köpt två bursar hjortronsylt och ett kurbitsmålat skrin på loppisen. (p. 135)

... where one of the Americans also bought two jars of cloudberry jam and a gourd-painted box from the junkshop. 

Gun-Britt's establishment is entirely typical. Like the coffee servery, the "loppis" is an integral part of any Jämtland farmstead that invites passing tourists; a repository for old furniture, obsolete farm tools, faded linen, bibles, paperbacks and CDs.

"Kurbitsmålning" is a decorative folk art that originated in Dalarna, characterized by richly coloured vegetable and flower shapes. "Kurbits" refers to the squash or pumpkin family (perhaps Jonah's gourd), but the botanical forms aren't meant to portray specific plants. 

A box decorated with kurbitsmålning 

[Image source: https://auctionet.com/sv/653033-skrin-med-kurbitsmalning-1800-tal .]


Do bears whistle?

"Det säger att den visslar när den kommer, men jag vet inte om det är sant." (p. 120)

"They say it whistles as it approaches, but I don't know if that's true."

Widely credited in Sweden, and often attested (E.g. recently by rider Jhenny Larsson in Offerdal, just before being chased by a bear for 3 km (P4 Jämtland)). According to skansen.se, those who come into contact with brown bears generally say that they make a blowing sound that can resemble a soft whistle.


Jocular inversions

Swedish lends itself to stylistic inversions, much more than modern English. The auctioneer uses this colloquial one, to a child:

"Fråga pappa din om han har råd med en hundralapp..." (p. 127)

"Ask your dad if he has a spare hundred-note ...." (100 kronor note, roughly equivalent to a £10 note)

Compare Sture: "De har ju alltid haft mycket med tornen sina" (p. 144); " Yes, they've always had a lot going on with their towers". (Sture is carefully ignoring the emotional point of the conversation.) 


Fika at the farm

Sonia is talking about what's going into her book.

"... Hur pappa alltid lyfte fram mig och såg min talang." (p. 130)

"... how dad always bigged me up and saw my talent."

"Framlyfta" means to highlight or emphasize, but unlike those terms it's also commonly applied to people. A good boss should "lyfta fram" his employees. On LinkedIn people say: I'm not writing this to "lyfta fram" myself but my marvellous team... Often the simplest English translation of "lyfta fram" would be "praise". 

But Sonia has come down to the farm with all guns blazing, and she means her sister Gun-Britt to feel the full implication of a highlight standing out from a contrasted background: Dad always put me and my exceptional gift in the spotlight, but naturally he left you in the shade.

Gun-Britt is a bit slow to fire up this morning, possibly because she knows she has a bombshell to drop on Sonia. The conversation turns to Gun-Britt's daughter Jenny, who's feeling poorly.

"Men hon lär väl bli bättre lagom till kvällen", sa Sonia. (p. 131)

"But she will likely be better enough this evening," said Sonia.

Gun-Britt still doesn't see it coming, but the curiously poised expression ought to warn her that Sonia has come with her own bombshell.

"Lär" is an auxiliary verb for talking about the future, but with an element of doubt: translate as "will", "may" or "should". Sonia isn't usually so understated, and it's a warning sign.

"Lagom" (suitably, appropriately, right enough) can be just a harmless filler word, and Gun-Britt doesn't challenge it. But the hint is there. Jenny will be better enough for what?

Incidentally Sture talks about "bord för fikat"  (p.144): tables for the fika on the wooden towers used by elk hunters. The term "fika" (originally a jocular transformation of "kaffi"?) only dates back to about 1910. It's more commonly a verb than a noun, and the noun's gender seems to be a matter of personal choice, so the rare definitive singular form is "fikat" for some people and "fikan" for others; there's similar variance on the plural forms, which are even rarer. 


Knowledge and science

Jenny's period pains:

Det enda some gjorde smärtan uthärdlig var vetskapen om att den skulle gå över. (p. 132)

The only thing that made the pain bearable was the knowledge that it would pass.

Generally speaking,

vetskap is "knowledge" when it means the knowing of a specific bit of information;

kunskap is "knowledge" when it means knowing a lot (e.g. about a wider topic, or in general);

and vetenskap is the normal word for science.

SAOB says the distinctions are often blurred.


English-style plurals 

Swedish has various ways to form the plural of nouns but none of them involves adding -s.

Nevertheless this plural ending turns up in borrowed English words: for instance Sonia talks about "mina fans" (my fans, p. 130), and people wear "jeans". 


Sluta, weak and strong

Harpan during his run, comparing Ante's voice with his own:

... men orden var rundare och slöt om mer. (p. 142)

But the words were rounder and encompassed more.

When I looked it up I was surprised to find that "slöt" was a form of the extremely common verb sluta, which unusually has both strong and weak forms (compare "hung" and "hanged" in English). What I mostly seem to hear are the weak forms (E.g. "slutade" not "slöt") but it's down to local or personal preference. SAOB suggests the weak forms correlate with the meaning "to finish" (terminate, stop, end), the strong forms with "to close" (shut, fasten, lock, unite, occlude). The latter is the case here: omsluta means to encompass or surround.


Gone to pieces

"Tror du det har snurrat om för henne nu?" (p. 145)

"Do you reckon she's lost it now?"

This is one of those slangy expressions that SAOB isn't very up with, and typing the phrase into Google gives much better results. 

Snurra basically means continuous sound (e.g. background hum, buzz), also applied to the whirring of a wheel. Hence it can mean spinning round, feeling dizzy, your mind in a whirl... and the phrase "det har snurrat om för henne" means she's completely lost it, gone to pieces: mental suffering and confusion after a traumatic event. 

[Nancybeth's husband has deserted her, and now she's acting oddly. Gun-Britt's question to Sture is more practical than sympathetic: Does she really mean what she says, or has she gone completely off her rocker now? Gun-Britt is inviting her husband's collusion, but as usual he's a disappointment.]


Not pretending

Jenny tyckte det brände i högerhanden igen, men låtsades inte om det när hon klädde på sig så fort hon kunde. (p. 147)

Jenny felt the burning in her right hand again but ignored it and threw on her clothes.

(Earlier, Jenny had thrust her hand into a bed of stinging nettles.)

Tycka is one of several Swedish words (tro, tänka, anse) that usually translate to "think" in English. Most commonly tycka is used about opinions and tastes and preferences, but it can also be used about a sensory impression, as here. Perhaps a more exact translation would be "Jenny seemed to feel it burning..."

Låtsas usually translates as "pretend", but not always.  In this case Jenny is far too angry to care what Per thinks. Yes, she acts as if the pain in her hand isn't there (she "ignored it"); but not because she wants to deceive anyone, it's simply the last thing on her mind, she just wants out. 


The ranger's hut

Sture hade isolerat den, inte för vinternätter direkt men för juninätter och septembernätter i alla fall . . . (p. 147)

Sture had insulated it, not enough for full-on winter but for nights in June and September anyway . . .

Isolera means "insulate" as well as "isolate".

Direkt has lots of meanings, mostly to do with straightness or immediacy. Here it means "outright". 

In Jämtland July and August are the only months of the year when you likely don't need some kind of insulation. June and September can be pretty cold, and cabin-owners often opt to extend the season with modest insulation, as Sture does here. (September is important because of the elk-hunt.) Making a cabin fit for a northern winter is a whole different ballgame. 

Had been or would have been?


Alla tre stugorna var rödmålade utvändigt, samma nyans, men de var olika byggda så riktigt harmoniskt blev det inte. Ändå hade de blivit fint. Stugbyn, som de kallade de tre stugorna, var hennes idé från början. (p. 148)

All three cabins were painted red on the outside, the same shade, but they were built differently so were not truly harmonious. All the same they had turned out nice. The cabin village (as they called the three cabins) was her idea from the outset.

But have I translated the second sentence correctly, or does it mean "Still, they would have been nice" (if built differently) ? 

Because in modern Swedish the past perfect is often used to talk about something that isn't the case, the same way Lady Macbeth used it:

Had he not resembled my father as he slept, I had done it.   (i.e. I would have done it, but I didn't).

As some Swedes complain, this extension of the past perfect creates the potential for misunderstanding; it relies on the context to tell you whether the thing actually occurred or not. 

In this case I'm fairly confident that Gun-Britt thinks the cabins really have turned out nice, unusual as it is for her to feel so unreservedly positive.  The larger context, as we'll discover, is getting away with doing things on the cheap. (As well as preparing us for her horrified reaction to Sonia's Dollywood.)

While on this topic, the past perfect is commonly used to respond to a suggestion.

Vill du gå på bio?

Det hade varit trevligt.

The response literally means "That had been nice" and can be interpreted as either "That would be nice" ("Nice idea, I'm up for it") or "That would have been nice" ("Nice idea, but sorry I can't make it"). According to this post the former implication predominates in the south, the latter in the north. I think both implications contain an element of doubt. 

Sonia's makeup bag

Hon städade aldrig sminkväskan så en del av det som låg där var väldigt gammalt. Spruckna puderkakor, läppglansförpackningar där sand, damm och döda bananflugor kletat sig fast, ögonpennor och läppennor med avbrutna spetsar, tuber med krämer som utlovade lifting effect. (p. 156)

She never tidied up her makeup bag so some of the contents were ancient. Cracked cakes of face powder, lip gloss packaging with sand, dust and dead fruit-flies stuck to it, eyeliners and lip liners with broken tips, tubes of creams that promised "a lifting effect". 

In Sweden fruit-flies are most commonly called banana-flies (bananflugor).

There's an old-fashioned Swedish cake called a "puderkaka" but the term also occurs in the context of face powder, like here. 

Drying cabinet

Där stod en rejäl tvättmaskin och en stor torktumlare och bredvid den en långsmalt torkskåp.

"Drar så mycket ström det där så det brukar vi inte använda. Men du kan hänga där ändå, om det är sådant som inte ska tumlas. Det blir ju blött om du hänger ute, för regnet verkar hålla i sig." (p. 166)

There was a decent washing-machine and a large tumble-dryer, and next to it a tall, thin drying cabinet.

"That thing uses so much electric we don't tend to use it. But you can hang your stuff in there anyway, if it can't be tumble-dried. It's sure to get wet if you hang it outside, because it looks like the rain's setting in."

A drying cabinet (torkskåp) is a niche product in Britain but common in Sweden where it's normal for apartment blocks to have a communal wash-house (tvättstuga). Developed in the 1980s, it's a tall electrically heated cabinet used for drying wet coats and shoes as well as delicates that can't be tumble-dried. 

Gun-Britt is talking to Harpan. In the eyes of a city-dweller like him, the presence of a drying cabinet at the farm is a reassuring surprise. But Gun-Britt's offer is somewhat equivocal, especially as Sonia's entourage aren't paying guests. 


*

Elin Olofsson on sly in rural Jämtland and in her novels [Swedish with English translation]:

https://swedishenglish.org/news/selta-workshop/author-elin-olofsson-with-translators-in-london/

*



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Saturday, December 04, 2021

Mammals of Jämtland / Jämtlands däggdjur / Norway Lemming / Fjällämmel




I'm dashing off a post in Starbucks while waiting to see if my pal Luke shows up (nb he didn't). I've been reading Kai Curry-Lindahl's book of animals in Sweden, The Animals in Colour / Djuren i färg (1955, 4th edn 1965). [Kai Curry-Lindahl (1917 - 1990), born in Stockholm, was a zoologist, conservationist, and for the last thirty years of his life an adviser to UN agencies based in Nairobi, with stints as a visiting professor to universities in the USA and Canada.]

As you'd expect many of the mammal species are limited to the southern half of Sweden, a similar situation as with plant species. Anyway to pass the time here's a list of the mammals that occur in Jämtland (a historic inland county, partly mountainous, in northern Sweden). (My "home" county, emotionally; it was where for many years my mum and dad had a summer cottage.) The distribution info is taken from the book, and is therefore a snapshot from the mid 20th century -- but I've given some updates in square brackets. 

Common Shrew (Vanlig näbbmus), Sorex araneus.
Eurasian Pygmy Shrew (Dvärgnäbbmus), Sorex minutus
Laxmann's Shrew (Lappnäbbmus), Sorex caecutiens (discovered in 1941) is in the far north, not Jämtland.
Eurasian Water Shrew (Vattennäbbmus), Neomys fodiens
Hedgehog (Igelkott), Erinaceus europaeus.   Jämtland is just outside its normal range, but it has been introduced in a few places. 
Whiskered Bat (Mustaschfladdermus), Myotis mystacinus. Common.
Daubenton's Bat (Vattenfladdermus), Myotis daubentonii. Reaches Jämtland, just. 
Brown Long-eared Bat (Långörad fladdermus), Plecotus auritus. Just reaches Härjedalen, the county just S. of Jämtland (and now in the same administrative county).
Northern Bat (Nordisk fladdermus), Eptesicus nilssonii. Common.
Mountain Hare (Skogshare), Lepus timidus
Red Squirrel (Ekorre), Sciurus vulgaris.
Beaver (Bäver), Castor fiber. The last native Swedish beaver was shot in Jämtland in 1871. In 1922 the species was reintroduced and quickly recolonized much of Sweden. A beaver dam at a nearby lake was one of the spots we visited annually. 
Northern Birch Mouse (Buskmus), Sicista betulina.
Black Rat (Svart råtta aka Takråtta), Rattus rattus. Now only fugitive in Sweden (ship escapes). Formerly common across much of the country in human habitats. 
Brown Rat (Brun råtta), Rattus norvegicus. Now in most towns and cities, except for some isolated ones e.g. in inland Lappland. (Despite the Latin name, it did not originate in Norway, but probably in C. Asia. The name arose from a belief, apparently false, that the rat came to Britain on ships from Norway; actually, it seems to have arrived in Britain before Norway.)
House Mouse (Husmus), Mus musculus. In human dwellings throughout Sweden.
Wood Mouse (Mindre skogsmus), Apodemus sylvaticus. Reaches Jämtland.
Yellow-necked Mouse (Större skogsmus aka Halsbandsmus), Apodemus flavicollis. Goes further north than Wood Mouse. In winter comes into houses and can be more numerous than House Mouse. 
Wood Lemming (Skogslämmel), Myopus schisticolor. A spruce forest species whose centre is southern Norrland. 
Norway Lemming (Fjällämmel), Lemmus lemmus. Across the whole Scandinavian fell region. [See below for a full translation of Curry-Lindahl's account.]
Bank Vole (Skogssork), Clethrionomys glareolus.
Northern Red-backed Vole (Rödsork), Clethrionomys rutilus, is a rare species of the far north. Not in Jämtland.
Grey Red-backed Vole (Gråsidig sork), Clethrionomys rufocanus. Characteristic Norrland species. 
European Water Vole (Vattensork), Arvicola terrestris.
Field Vole (Åkersork), Microtus agrestis. The commonest vole species in Sweden as a whole. There was a lot of vole activity in our cottage garden, but I don't know which species. 
Tundra Vole (Mellansork), Microtus oeconomus. A far northern species, but recorded in a few places further south, incl. some fell regions in Jämtland.
Muskrat (Bisamråtta), Ondatra zibethicus. N. American species illegally introduced in two places in Torneälven in the far north in 1944, and has spread, but not as far down as Jämtland at the time of the book.
Coypu (Sumpbäver), Myocastor coypus. S. American species recorded in various parts of Sweden; it may have reached Jämtland since this book. 
Wolf (Varg), Canis lupus. Sporadic in fell region as far south as Härjedalen. [It has probably spread quite a lot more since the book.]
Red Fox (Räv), Vulpes vulpes.
Arctic Fox (Fjällräv), Alopex lagopus [now renamed Vulpes lagopus]. As far down as Härjedalen in the fell region, but generally rare. [The species is outcompeted by the Red Fox except in "lemming years", which are now becoming less frequent, so Nils Christian Stenseth predicts its decline (according to the article linked below).]
Brown Bear (Björn or Brunbjörn), Ursus arctos. Throughout northern Sweden. [Has become more common since the book. Strömsund region in Jämtland is now thought to have the highest population of bears in Sweden.] 
European Pine Marten (Mård), Martes martes. Throughout Sweden but generally rare.
Stoat (Hermelin), Mustela erminea
Common Least Weasel (Småvessla), Mustela nivalis nivalis.   
Dwarf Weasel (Dvärgvessla), Mustela nivalis minuta . Recorded in various surrounding counties but not Jämtland at the time of the book.
Mink (Mink), Mustela vison. N. American species, introduced and now over much of Sweden.
Badger (Grävling), Meles meles. Its northern limit runs across Jämtland. 
Wolverine (Järv), Gulo gulo. Rare in fell regions.
Otter (Utter), Lutra lutra
Lynx (Lo), Lynx lynx. Once more widespread across Sweden, but Jämtland is one of the counties where it is still established.
Roe Deer (Rådjur), Capreolus capreolus. Spread widely through Norrland in recent years, including Jämtland.
Red Deer (Kronhjort), Cervus elaphus. Formerly more widespread, only established in Skåne in recent time, but scattered observations elsewhere, including Härjedalen in 1955.
Elk, Moose (Älg), Alces alces. Throughout Sweden. We'd come across them in the forest now and then.
Reindeer (Ren), Rangifer tarandus. There are no truly wild reindeer in Sweden any more (one of the last places was Härjedalen). Semi-domesticated free-roaming reindeer are common in the fells in summer, and in the woods in winter. 
Musk Ox (Myskoxe), Ovibos moschatus. Successful introduction in 1948 in Norway (Dovre) -- two earlier attempts in Sweden had failed. There were already reported sightings in the Swedish fells by 1955. [They are established in Härjedalen now (west of Tännäs).  Recently seen in Svenstavik in Jämtland.]


*

NORWAY LEMMING

There are many other accounts of this extraordinary species, but Curry-Lindahl's still seemed worth translating. I've broken it up into more paragraphs. I found his expression difficult and I've rehandled it quite a lot, but hopefully I haven't missed the point too often. 


NORWAY LEMMING [FJÄLLÄMMEL (=Fell Lemming)], Lemmus lemmus

A rustbrown, black and beige rodent with in an irascible temper in certain years; it may place itself in the fell-wanderer's path, hissing, simmering and trembling with rage if the animal finds retreat to its hole cut off.  

The Norway Lemming occurs along the whole Swedish mountain chain from Fulufjäll in Dalarna to the most northerly part of Lappland. Its appearances are very periodic. In some years the species can occur in extraordinary numbers in all mountain vegetation zones right down to the conifer forest, while in the intervening periods it can seem to have completely vanished. Up to and including 1942 Sweden's lemmings had a more or less pronounced 4-year cycle with regular and clearly noticeable frequency peaks roughly every fourth year, the so-called lemming years. The years 1945 and 1950 were partial lemming years, that is to say a certain increase in frequency (though no more so than other rodents) could be observed in the mountain regions of Härjedalen and Jämtland, while Lappland saw no peak after 1942 until 1960-61. 

The lemming's mass occurrences may briefly be explained thus: several successive years with conditions favourable for lemmings (climate, food), can lead to a sharp increase in the population, at an ever-increasing rate, and reproduction in some years occurs also in winter, probably right through the winter. It is this last-named circumstance that causes what seems a sudden mass occurrence, when the snow begins to melt in the spring. 

The mass migrations have been explained as caused by disease, psychosis, overpopulation or food scarcity. But what is certain is that the mountain heaths are able to supply enough food for the lemming population even at its peak, and the migrating lemmings have not been so disease-ridden as to prevent them establishing themselves and reproducing in new mountain locations. But it is a fact that many lemmings come to grief during the dispersals, which set off to every point of the compass: up to glaciers, down to lakes and rivers and woods, and sometimes, especially in Norway, even down to the sea. Many individuals resist being borne away and stay in their original location. However epidemics and pathological disturbances do occur and rapidly decimate the population, which besides is heavily preyed on by many animals. 

Lemmings inhabit all mountain zones, right up to the lichen zone, which is in fact its principal haunt and remains so in poor years as well as in good years. They have an impressive appetite and produce enormous quantities of excreta, which one sees traces of everywhere. They are most active at night. In winter they seek dry places in (especially) the willow and lichen zones, where they make extensive tunnel systems along the ground beneath the snow-cover, and where too they build round habitations out of grass, which are sometimes fastened to willow bushes where they remain hanging after the snow melts away. In summer the lemmings seek damper places among sedge, dwarf willows and dwarf birch. These seasonal movements, which must not be confused with the mass migrations, occur both horizontally and vertically depending on local circumstances. The species finds summer protection in the ground's natural hollows, or makes corridors beneath the shrub cover. The nests, which sometimes have two chambers (possibly remnants of the same female's different broods) can be situated here, there and everywhere; just as often in ground vegetation as in hollows under stones or the like. The lemmings' food consists of practically all the vegetable nourishment the mountains can offer: grass, seeds, moss, flowers, leaves, stems, bark, roots, etc. Exceptionally the species also consumes dead animals, and in captivity one lemming was seen to kill and eat a common lizard. 

-- The Norway Lemming produces several sounds: squeaking, hissing and screeching. Reproduction commonly begins in April-May, when the female in an early spring may already have her first litter, but in certain years reproduction also takes place through the winter, with several litters. Gestation is 18 days. The number of young in a litter varies between 2 and 11 (13 embryos have been witnessed); commonly there are 6-8, and in winter litters most often 2-4. The number of litters in a season has been estimated as 4-5 in a good year. When winter litters are produced the number per year becomes even higher, and the interval between birthings may be as low as 23 days. The young can see after 10-12 days. They are independent at 15-20 days and sexually mature at 20-35 days, varying in different years depending on environmental factors. The Norway Lemming can approach three years in age. It is also known as Fell Mouse (fjällmus) and Fell Rat* (fjällråtta). 
* But in spoken Swedish of this era, the word råttor was often used to mean mice, or rodents in general.

*

"Lemming years" were first described by Olaus Magnus in 1555. He explained them as lemmings falling from the sky, like a biblical plague. 

According to this article, the regular cycle ceased in the 1990s, probably due to climate change. A crucial factor is cold dry snow in winter, which used to be reliable. This kind of snow creates the insulating protective cover that allows winter reproduction. Now that the winter snow is often wet, lemming population explosions have become less frequent and more irregular. (But as we've seen Curry-Lindahl already observed that the cycle was becoming less regular by the mid 1940s.)

This is useful too: 

The change to winter snow structure is also a threat to reindeer in Finnmark, as described by Ben Rawlence here: https://www.theguardian.com/news/2022/jan/20/norway-arctic-circle-trees-sami-reindeer-global-heating

Until 2005, the average winter temperature in the region was -15C and it would reliably sink below -40C at least once during the winter, eliminating even the hardiest of all insect larvae, a process that kept the Arctic pest-free in the summer.

This world of winter was dark and cold and dry. At those temperatures there was no moisture at all. The snowpack was the consistency of sand, made up of several layers of large snow crystals. At -40C or-50C in the middle of winter, the quality and nature of snow crystals is critical to the survival of humans and animals alike.

When the temperature climbs back up towards zero or, even worse, above it, this delicate winter ecosystem collapses. Even a little warming of the snow can create havoc. Moisture starts to appear in the snowpack at -5C or -6C, at which point it loses its sand-like quality, and the snow starts to compact under the reindeer’s hooves, ruining the grazing beneath. If the thermometer goes all the way into the positive, as it has done increasingly in recent years, it is a catastrophe. Melting snow or rain will freeze when the temperature goes negative again, forming a crust of ice over the ground, locking the vegetation away from the browsing reindeer. This happened in 2013 and again in 2017. Tens of thousands of reindeer died; some herders lost more than a third of their animals.




Rodent droppings, from Spårboken (Danish text by Preben Bang, illustrations by Preben Dahlström, Swedish translation by Håkan Hallander, 1974).

Left (from top to bottom): Muskrat, European Water Vole, Norway Lemming, Field Vole.
Right (from top to bottom): Brown Rat, Black Rat, House Mouse, Wood Mouse.



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Monday, August 22, 2016

Wild flowers from the fells - Jämtlanstriangeln Sylarna Summer 2016



Storulvån

Storulvån. The name of the river, and also the name of the adjacent Fjällstation, which was the start and finish of our four-day triangular jaunt in the fells (29/7/16 - 1/8/16). (I did the walk with Kyli and Hannah.)

As I struggled along with my too-heavy pack, I of course snapped a few common mountain plants; and here they are.

(During the actual walk my meditations mostly concerned the various dwarf willows we saw along the way, but in the end I never made time for in-depth willow study, there were too many other exciting things to do. I brought home a plastic bag of willow samples, and forgot to unbag them until they'd gone mouldy and had to be thrown away.)


Angelica archangelica

Angelica archangelica (Sw: Kvanne, En: Garden Angelica)

It's true we were only just above the tree-line at this point, but there remains an air of paradox about the sight of this sturdy vegetable in the open fell country. The places it frequents, however, are usually luscious spots on the edges of streams.

Its worldwide distribution is bizarre: a sort of line from the Himalayas and Urals through Russia and Scandinavia to the Faeroes, Iceland and Greenland: and nowhere else.

The above statement lumps together two different subspecies. The one famous as a candy, food and medicine, is this mountain plant, ssp. archangelica, sometimes known in Sweden as Fjällkvanne to distinguish it from the coastal ssp. littoralis (Strandkvanne), which is found only in Scandinavia and Iceland. [Neither are to be confused with the familiar woodland plant Wild Angelica (A. sylvestris) (see end of this post!).]

An extremely fragrant plant, attracting insects from a wide area around. Unfortunately I couldn't smell it at all;  it was far too early in our ramble for my uncertain sense of smell to have recovered from months of office air-conditioning!

The plant has been used locally as food, e.g. in Sami dishes (compare Oxyria digyna, below). The stems can even be eaten raw; they have a sweetish taste.

But its wider use in international cuisine began with its cultivation at the other end of Europe, in the marshy flatlands of Marais-Poitevin in W France. (Most sources say the cultivation began in 1602, following an outbreak of the plague, for which the plant was said to be a remedy.) One of its main uses today, aside from the familiar green candied angelica, is as flavouring of e.g. Vermouth, Dubonnet, Chartreuse and Bénédictine.

Angelica archangelica in my garden


In the UK it has never been native (hence the English name Garden Angelica) and it occurs only as an escape from cultivation; the London area is where you're most likely to run across it.


Persicaria vivipara

Persicaria vivipara (Sw: Ormrot, En: Alpine Bistort). The plants hedge their bets reproduction-wise, with hopeful sexual flowers at the top, and more reliable bulbils further down.

It works: this plant grows nearly everywhere in Sweden. Sentimental attachment probably explains why I snapped this not particularly splendid specimen, and why the resulting photo moves me as it does.

It has a wide distribution all round the northern hemisphere, getting about as far north as it's possible for a plant to go (on the north coast of Greenland).

In the British Isles, however, P. vivipara is restricted to the mountains of C Scotland and a small area of the N Pennines.

The vernacular names reflect that. The Swedish name "Ormrot", which means "snake root", is homely and obviously of popular origin. Just as obviously, the English name "Alpine Bistort" comes from the botanical community.

At least both those names are stable. On the other hand, the scientific name has proved a nightmare. In addition to Persicaria vivipara you'll also see it called Polygonum viviparum, Polygonum vivipara, and Bistorta vivipara. I'm still not really sure which name we're meant to be using.


Ranunculus acris

Ranunculus acris (Sw: Smörblomma, En: Meadow Buttercup)

Surrounded by so many plants unknown in our daily lives in lowland Britain, it was almost a surprise to spot the odd familiar species. One of them was Meadow Buttercup, here growing with Angelica archangelica. I also noticed lots of Yellow Rattle (Rhinanthus minor).


Dryas octopetala


Dryas octopetala (Sw: Fjällsippa, En: Mountain Avens)

The Dryas leaves are the fresh green gribbly-edged ones. [The larger grey-green orbicular leaves are a dwarf willow that is so unmistakable that even I can recognize it, Salix reticulata (Sw: Nätvide, En: Net-veined Willow).]

Dryas octopetala characteristically grows on dry, calcareous ground from which the snow clears relatively early. This type of species-rich vegetation is known as  fjällsippshed / Dryas-heath. We only saw it in one place, beside a pretty beck on the ascent to Blåhammaren.

The Swedish name connects it with various with other showy wild plants such as Vitsippa (Wood-anemone), Mosippa (Pasque Flower), Blåsippa (Hepatica) and Gulsippa (Anemone ranunculoides). But this one is in the Rose family, not in the Buttercup family like the others.

Also native to the British Isles, mostly in NW Scotland and the Burren.


Dryas octopetala



Last sunset on hills - from Blåhammaren, about 23:00


Blåhammaren is the smallest and highest Fjällstation in Sweden (1086m - 3562 feet). We arrived two hours late for the famous three-course dinner, but they gave us our own sitting.

While the weary hikers were sleeping, or trying to sleep, in the packed sweaty dormitories, a dozen reindeer came to graze around the buildings, and the sunlight moved round the northern horizon. The next morning it was raining heavily.


Saxifraga aizoides

Saxifraga aizoides (Sw: Gullbräcka, En: Yellow Saxifrage). It can often look more spectacular than this: especially when you find the orange and yellow forms growing side by side. By streams and springs on calcareous substrate.

Throughout the fell region. Also found in the Highlands of Scotland, Lake District, and Benbulbin in Co. Sligo.




Carex saxatilis

Carex saxatilis (Sw: Glansstarr, En: Russet Sedge).

I can't believe I've never written about a sedge before, as my list of "Botanical Entries" (to the right of this blog) seems to affirm.

Anyway this handsome sedge is common throughout the fell region in wet places with calcareous substrates. Also found in the Scottish Highlands.

The Swedish name "Glansstarr" translates as "Lustrous Sedge" or "Splendid Sedge".


Pinguicula vulgaris

Pinguicula vulgaris (Sw: Tätört, En: Common Butterwort)

The least bad of several attempts at photographing this single Butterwort flower, while balancing on narrow planks half-way across a bog.

Not specifically a fell species, it grows in wet places almost everywhere in Sweden. In the British Isles it's common in the north-west but has disappeared from much of the south and east due to agricultural drainage of wetland.

Långfil (also called Tätmjölk) is a local kind of fermented milk with a distinctive slimy or ropy texture. One way of starting the culture is rubbing the inside of the churn with the leaves of Butterwort or Sundew. This leaves a substance (it's disputed whether it's the enzymes of these insectivorous plants, or the bacteria they attract) whose effect is to make the milk proteins form into long polysaccharide chains, hence the ropy texture (which you can get rid of by stirring it before eating it). Linnaeus (Flora Lapponica, 1737) gave a different description of the method: "Some fresh, newly picked Pinguicula leaves, of any kind, are put in a strainer, and the freshly-drawn, still lukewarm, milk is poured over it."

Fermentation was a way of preserving the milk, much needed in the local transhumance culture of Jämtland, where people often spent months at a time pasturing cattle far from their homesteads.

[The Swedish Wikipedia entry for Långfil, however, states that all modern attempts to use butterwort to ferment milk have failed, the appropriate bacterium Lactococcus lactis being absent, and suggests that the much-repeated story of its former use for this purpose should be treated as a factoid. It is certain, however, that butterwort leaves have bactericidal properties and were used to clean the udders of cows.]

Pedicularis sceptrum-carolinum


Pedicularis is a more significant genus up here than in the British Isles (and the Swedish name "spira" sounds much nicer than the English name "lousewort").

This one is the biggest and most magnificent species, Pedicularis sceptrum-carolinum (Sw: Kung Karls spira, En: Moor-king Lousewort). Common on the edges of wet, boggy ground. Not found in the British Isles.



Lichens on stone


Typically decorative stones. I don't know anything about lichens, but the further north you go, the better they seem to get.



More lichens on stone


Hieracium alpinum growing among Alchemilla alpina


Hieracium alpinum (Sw: Fjällfibbla, En: Alpine Hawkweed)

I've made up the English name. Hawkweeds are a highly critical group and this may be better regarded as an aggregate group of microspecies (Hieracium sect. Alpina). Similar hawkweeds occur in C. Scotland. Whether they are the same species as any of the Scandinavian plants is a moot point.

Whatever, Fjällfibbla  in a general sense (whether it's one species or many) is highly recognizable up here and very common.

Alchemilla alpina (Sw: Fjälldaggkåpa, En: Alpine Lady's-mantle)

"Daggkåpa" means "dew-cape", so there is evidently some connection with the English name Lady's Mantle. I suppose these names were suggested by the pleated orbicular leaves of the lowland types (and perhaps, in the case of the Swedish name, the blob of rainwater that often collects in the middle). In the alpine species, however, these leaves are divided into finger-like leaflets.



Sedum rosea


Sedum rosea (SW: Rosenrot, EN: Roseroot). A common plant up here, and some of it was still in bloom. This one wasn't, but it looked really good in the rain.




Pedicularis lapponica

Pedicularis lapponica (Sw: Lappspira, En: Lapland Lousewort). One of my favourites, common throughout the fell region. Not found in the British Isles.

Photo taken just outside the Sylarna Fjällstation, where we stayed for two nights.

This was 1040m / 3412ft above sea level, but the Meadow Buttercup in the background was still hanging in there!


Oxyria digyna


Oxyria digyna (Sw: Fjällsyra, En: Mountain Sorrel) is a very small dock. Very common (one of the plants that grows highest, along with Ranunculus glacialis). The leaves, like those of lowland sorrel, have a fresh, sour taste. (It's added to reindeer milk to make the Sami dish "Juobmo".)



Silene acaulis


Silene acaulis (Sw: Fjällglim, En: Moss Campion).

"One of our few true cushion plants", wrote C.A.M. Lindman in Nordens Flora. This form of growth involves every stem being an identical length, so as to form a perfect defensive dome, cradling the warmth and repelling wind and snow. Each stem produces only a single flower.

When the flowers first appear they are salmon-pink, later becoming a pale violet, as here.

In Britain it's mainly a plant of NW Scotland, with outliers in the Lake District, Benbulbin and Snowdonia.


Bartsia alpina

Bartsia alpina (Sw: Svarthö, En: Alpine Bartsia).

Common in the Scandinavian fells, sometimes descending into the lowlands along river systems. Extremely local in Scotland and N England.  

A rather striking plant. "Svarthö" means "black hay", though I don't know if that's really the origin of the name,


The high fells: Tempeldalen, Sylarna



Veronica alpina

Veronica alpina (Sw: Fjällveronika, En: Alpine Speedwell).

This photo shows the flowers when they're closed. They close up whenever it rains, and up here that's most of the time. (It isn't heavy rain, just the sort of continuous light precipitation that you always get when you're up in the clouds.)

Grows throughout the Scandinavian fell region, in areas where the snow lies late. In the British Isles, restricted to a few mountains in central Scotland.




Ranunculus glacialis

Ranunculus glacialis (Sw: Isranunkel, Renblomma. En: Glacier Buttercup, Glacier Crowfoot).

This remarkable buttercup is the flowering plant that grows highest in the Scandinavian mountains. It's also the plant that grows nearest to the north pole (on the north coast of Greenland).  It's characteristically found on the lower edges of glaciers and permanent snow-patches, where there is a trickle of melt-water all summer. (On Sylarna there are three glaciers, though they're shrinking year by year.)

Occasionally a solitary plant turns up in a lowland river valley, growing from a seed that's been washed downstream.

When the flowers first open they are whitish, but rapidly darken to pink and magenta.

According to Lindman it's a favourite food of reindeer (hence "renblomma"), and I guess that's true, since there's a photo of reindeer grazing on it in Sven Kilander's 1955 book about the height limits of vascular plants on the Swedish mountains (p. 71). An unusual example of the normally-poisonous buttercup family providing pasturage!  (Though I've also been told that the root nodules of Lesser Celandine can be eaten.)

Ranunculus glacialis has never been recorded in the British Isles; not too surprising, as there's really no suitable environment for a plant that's as ice-loving as this one.


Ranunculus glacialis

This is close to the limit of higher plants. The other leaves in this photo are Oxyria digyna, Veronica alpina and Gnaphalium supinum (Sw: Fjällnoppa, En: Dwarf Cudweed). Above this,  it's nothing but moss, algae, lichens and bare rock.


Ranunculus glacialis



Ranunculus glacialis



In the high fells



Finally, a couple of shots from the return leg:






Arctostaphylos alpinus

Arctostaphylos alpinus (Sw: Ripbär,  En: Arctic Bearberry). At Spåime, on species-poor moorland. A specialist of harsh environments where the winds are too strong for snow to settle.

I wrote a separate post about this one:

http://michaelpeverett.blogspot.co.uk/2016/08/back-from-mountains.html


Angelica sylvestris

Finally, as we descended in warm sunshine to the friendlier environs of Storulvån, I couldn't resist snapping this enthusiastic crowd of hoverflies on a just-opened umbel of the lowland Angelica species, Angelica sylvestris (Sw: Strätta, En: Wild Angelica).


We were back!


*

Here's my translation of Curt Lofterud's very informative booklet about this walk:

https://michaelpeverett.blogspot.com/2016/07/storulvan-blahammaren-sylarna.html


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